Nearly exactly one month earlier, in March, I had already visited and thoroughly photographed both Warsaw and Poznan. But I wasn't quite ready to be done with Poland - the country's biggest tourism draw, the city of Krakow, was on my itinerary in late April. I had planned a visit with two American friends, and it would be my 2nd-to-last trip away from Germany before my program came to end with a huge two-week blitz through...